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Technical Bulletin
2009.01.08: How to fix Convert Revolution from full-auto to Burst |
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IMPORTANT
DISCLAIMER:
1. This procedure is considered a "hack". It is not supported by SYSTEMA, nor ZShot.com - we only post it here for
educational / reference purposes. In fact it is not even
acknowledge by SYSTEMA. ONLY APPLY AT YOUR OWN RISK!
2. This procedure involves removing, and modifying the main circuit. It requires
a very high level of skill, as well as the correct equipment.
If you do not have any "surface mount" experience, DO NOT ATTEMPT.
If you have to ask what "surface mount" is, DO NOT ATTEMPT. If
you cannot risk $200+ for a replacement circuit (yes... that damn
chip is expensive), DO NOT ATTEMPT. If you
have ANY doubt what-so-ever (e.g. say one of the picture doesn't
match up), DO NOT ATTEMPT.
3. Performing this modification definitely and positively void your
warranty (if available in your country). For example, in U.S.,
if your Revolution is installed by a factory certified armorer it
will come with a 90 days warranty. However if you modify the
circuit (in fact, if you remove the gearbox from the receiver or
even open it) your warranty is void. Only consider applying this
procedure if you understand the ramification.
With all the disclaimers out of the way, lets look at how to
make the Revolution fire Burst (instead of Auto). The
procedure itself is really simple - remove the main control circuit
(ECU, or Electronic Control Unit) from the gearbox, and solder two
jumper connections together. The two pins you needed to solder
is shown at the picture, which is clickable. Click here for a
slightly larger version if you have a high resolution monitor.
Just keep in mind that in reality its much harder then it looks.
There are a couple tricks on opening the Revolution. First of
all, the cylinder head bumper will wedge itself fairly tight in the
gearbox shell. It is not uncommon that it requires a bit of
convincing (especially around the nozzle) for the gearbox to open.
Just make sure you did remove all the screws first (the position of
the longer screws that holds the two half of the shell is slightly
different from traditional TM gearboxes). Secondly, always
open the gearbox shell with the word "Revolution" facing you.
This way the motor / battery wiring won't fall out on you.
Thirdly, as you get the gearbox to split open, apply some pressure
at both the cylinder and spring guide while lifting the right-half
gearbox shell. The cylinder is easy, just press it down as you
try to pull the shell up. On the spring guide, apply pressure
through the opening behind the piston. Technically you will be
pressing the spring that surrounds the spring guide, but the end
result is the same. Unlike TM gearboxes, the Revolution's
internal components will stay put (even under tension) and remain
relatively stable even without the right-side gearbox shell.
Thus, when you open the Revolution, if you make sure all components
remain "seated" in their respective slot on the left-half of the
shell while you lift the right half away, it will not "explode" in
every direction like a TM gearbox.
Now, once you have the Revolution open, pay VERY CAREFUL attention
on how the wires are routed - especially the small signal wires
around the control unit. When you re-assemble the gearbox, if
some of these wires are not placed correctly, it will get pinched
and sometimes cut. The resulting short circuit could
permanently damage your ECU. I would suggest take several
pictures of the circuit / wiring for future reference, before you
remove the circuit.
Finally, when you are ready to re-assemble the Revolution, make sure
the Main Sector Gear (the last gear that pulls the piston) is
positioned correctly. Basically, there are 15 teeth on the
Main Sector Gear that will contact (and pull) the piston. THEY
NEED TO BE FACING THE 6 O'CLOCK POSITION. This is, of course,
assuming you are looking at the Revolution right-side-up (i.e.
piston/cylinder/spring is on top, the hole where the motor shaft
comes in at the bottom). Although the Revolution will
automatically "time" itself after the first shot (even if the Main
Sector Gear is in the wrong position - the Revolution's "timing" is
fully automatic), there is still a risk that during the first shot
it would smash with the piston rack gear and cause damage.
I hope you will find this bulliten informational. The
following are some FAQ which we will attempt to update as needed.
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Q.
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Can I
modify the Revolution for a 4-position trigger (S/E/3/F)
like the TW5? |
| A.
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No,
unfortunately not at this moment. If you solder those
two jumbers together, it will have a S/E/3 trigger group.
Without them soldered, it will have a S/E/F trigger group. |
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| Q. |
Can I send the Revolution in
to be modified? |
| A. |
Sorry we currently do not
offer modification services, however you may want to check
with one of our official dealers. Some of the more
experienced gunsmith may be willing to perform the
modification for a fee. |
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| Q. |
Does SYSTEMA offer a
Revolution in "Burst Mode" out of the box? |
| A. |
Currently all Revolution
have a S/E/F trigger group, and "burst" is not available at
the moment. However, we do not rule out the
possibility that SYSTEMA will offer a Burst Revolution in
the future. |
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| Q. |
Is it safe to perform this
modification? |
| A. |
It depends on your
definition of "Safe" - we suspect that SYSTEMA did not
introduce the Burst mode initially (even though the circuit
seems fully capable of doing such) due to insufficient
internal testing. SYSTEMA traditionally perform very
strenuous tests on all their products before they are
released, and they might've felt that they haven't done
enough testing on the Burst functional to comfortably
conclude that the Revolution's Burst function meet their
high standard of performance and durability. Although
it is unlikely, we cannot guarantee the conversion to Burst
will not adversely affect the circuit's life or performance.
We have several units converted to Burst in-house and will
be testing those ourselves. |
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| Q. |
Are there any catches to
converting to Burst? |
| A. |
The only one we can think of
right now is the potentially shorter motor brush life.
Similar to the PTW, the Revolution apply "brake" to the
motor (by sending a short pulse of reversed current) when it
finishes a firing cycle. If you fire in semi-auto, the
motor will have to brake after each round. If you fire
in full-auto, the motor will have to brake after you let off
the trigger. If you fire in Burst, the motor will have
to brake after 3 rounds. This, for the average user
who fire in full-auto regularly, the frequency of the motor
"braking" is typically higher when you use the burst mode.
Since braking can cause spark/arc between the motor brush
and commutator, it accelerates brush wear and occasionally
wore down the commutator as well. Oh I guess another
catch is that you may be buying less SYSTEMA BBs... Majority
of our players reported that by switching from full-auto to
burst in their PTW, they cut their ammo usage significantly
because they forced themselves to have better trigger
control. (Same reason why the U.S. Military introduced
3-round Burst M16.) But that's more a catch for us,
then for you... |
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| Q. |
I have more questions.
Where do I ask? |
| A. |
If your question is in
relation to the Burst mode conversion, I am afraid there
isn't any more we can tell you. All necessary
information is posted here. However, if it is related
to the Revolution (or other SYSTEMA products) in general,
please e-mail
Sales@ZShot.com and we will try to answer them for you. |
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